Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.
The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.
“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.
It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.
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